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Tokyo | Around Tokyo | Chiba | Hakone | Shizuoka | Yokohama | Minakami | Northern Honshu | Hirosaki | Aomori | Hokkaido | Central Honshu | Kansai | Osaka | Kyoto | Nara | Himeji | Western Honshu | Hiroshima | Miyajima | Matsue | Kysuhu | Fukuoka | Dazaifu | Nagasaki | Kagoshima | Okinawa » Tokyo's new Tsukuba Express running northeast from Akihabara to Tsukuba via Asakusa opens 24 August.
» A police report has revealed that sexual harrassment on the Tokyo metro is on the increase. Three times the number of incidents are reported compared to 8 years ago. One third of victims are school girls. In response, some train operators are introducing women-only cars on certain trains during the rush hour.
» There are plans to restore Tokyo Station, built in 1914, to its original design. The building lost its third floor and two smaller domes in an air-raid in May 1945. The project is not due to start until 2006, for completion by 2010.
» On Dec 25, the relocation of the Tsukuji wholesale market (Tôkyô's Chûô-ku) to the Toyosu district in Kôtô-ku, 2 km away from the present site, was officially decided. Tôkyô Prefecture hopes to finish the relocation by fiscal 2016.
» Possibly the highlight of Chiba prefecture is Nokogiriyama. It is quite beautiful- there are hundreds of little Buddahs scattered around the mountain and the top (via a ropeway) provides a fantastic view over Tokyo Bay and down the coastline (I think I might even have spotted Fuji somewhere in the distance). The highlight, of course, is the stone Buddah which is the biggest stone Buddah in Japan and, well, its pretty big and worth a visit. It's about 2hrs from Tokyo.
» In the Hakone area the POLA Museum of Art has one of the best (the best?) collections of Western art in Japan. Nine paintings by Cezanne alone and 16 by Monet.
» Shizuoka is worth a quick visit because of a huge temple on a cliff edge that is reached by ropeway (sorry can't remember name - Toshogu?). You can then take the temple staircase (over 1,000 steps) down to a waterfront town and strawberry greenhouses below (take a bus to get back to the station).
» The Tôkyû railway company is going to discontinue all train services between the Yokohama and Sakuragi-chô stations (2 km) of the Tôyoko Line on Jan 31, 2004, as a new subway "Minato Mirai 21 Line" (4.1 km) is going to be opened in early Feb 2004. The Tôkyû Tôyoko Line trains are going to drive into this new subway line without transfer.
» A couple of hours' by train northeast of Tokyo, the Minakami area is a popular hiking, skiing and onsen destination. The most popular rotenburo near Minakami itself is Okutone-kan, on the main road north out of Minakami. Jacuzzi-fied onsen water is available and the whole affair hangs over the river - great in winter. In Minakami town there are many hotels with onsens. Many are happy to take foreigners. The Minakami Nikko Hotel has a good onsen with rotenburo. The water is extremely hot, however. Mixed bathing available if you can find the secret door to the common pool. Minakami has about 20 small-to-medium ski-fields, half of which allow snowboarding at the time of writing (check before hitting the slopes):
Through the tunnel in Niigata-ken is the world-class Joetsu-Kokusai and Yuzawa areas for skiing. There are over 15 huge ski resorts to choose from on the Niigata side (which often gets even better snow).
» The Times reports that the authorities in Hirosaki are commissioning scientists to make sure their cherry trees blossom at the designated time. Normally in this part of Japan, the blossoms coincide with the Golden Week holidays, when as many as 2 million visitors would come to see Hirosaki's famous trees. In recent years, however, climate changes means the blossoms have been appearing earlier and earlier. In 2004 they were 10 days early, which meant the display was over well before Golden Week, and a mere 600,000 tourists turned up. So far the scientists have failed to find an answer. They tried piling snow round the trees, to make them think it was still winter, but to no avail. Other experiments involve sprays and hormone injections. According to The Times, there are as many as 250 varieties of ornamental cherry in Japan.
» Kyodo News reports that a nuclear fuel company is going to ask the people of Rokkasho village in Aomori-ken for permission to build a factory to manufacture mixed uranium and plutonium oxide fuel (MOX). If given the go ahead, the plant will be operational in 2008/2009.
» Skybus provides a door-to-door service between New Chitose Airport and Sapporo City. The service runs 5am to 10pm.
» World Expo 2005 takes place in Seto City, Aichi Prefecture from 25 March to 25 September. The theme is "Nature's Wisdom", focusing on environmental issues, sustainable development and so forth. Apparently the entire site has been designed with environmental preservation in mind. A highlight of the expo will be the new MegLev train, capable of travelling 500km per hour.
» The new Chûbu International Airport has opened off Tokoname, south of Nagoya.
» On April 25, JR Tôkai, Shiga Prefecture and Rittô City agreed on the construction of a new station along the Tôkaidô Shinkansen (bullet train) line, tentatively named Biwa-ko Rittô station, hopefully in spring 2010.
» Following the tragic train accident in Amagasaki City, near Osaka, on April 25, JR West's Takarazuka line is back in operation since June 19. The maximum speed has been lowered and the travel time has been lengthened, because the consensus has it that the extremely tight train schedule was one of the biggest causes of the accident. The system of "reeducation" for train drivers who caused delays and other mistakes will also be reexamined.
» Westin Miyako Hotel: western-style rooms v comfy and great views of Kyoto from top floors. Japanese are also roomy and have traditional garden views. One big plus of staying at this place is their check in desk at Kyoto station - you can drop your bags off here as soon as you arrive, sightsee and turn up at the hotel later in the day to find bags in room. They'll also transport bags to station for free when you leave.
» I just thought that it would be nice to let people know that if they are heading directly to Kyoto from KIX (Kansai International Airport), they would be wise to take the MK taxi service from the airport "to the door" rather than relying on the Haruka train service. They should make reservations in advance online. It is cheaper than the Haruka, and a lot more convenient, especially if you are lugging a lot of stuff. Even better if they have a map of their destination.
» Reuters reports that researchers at Kyoto University claim to have unravelled the mystery of the Zen garden at Ryôan-ji. They say that the spaces in the garden, when viewed from the centre of the hall behind, evoke the "hidden image of a branching tree that is sensed by the unconscious mind". Glad we've got that one sorted out!
» The Kitayama area of Kyoto contains several gems of modern architecture, including the "Garden of Fine Arts" by architect Ando Tadao (next to Kitayama subway station), and buildings by Shin Takamatsu and others, all world class architects from Japan.
» A wall painting of the legendary bird "Suzaku", one of the four deities of ancient China governing the four corners of the heaven, was discovered inside the Kitora burial mound (late 7th century to early 8th century) in Asuka Village, Nara Prefecture.
» On Feb 20, the Nara National Cultural Properties Research Institute announced that the core pillar of the five-storied tower of the Hôryû-ji temple in Ikaruga Town, Nara Prefecture, which is the oldest among Japan's existing Buddhist towers, had been identified as made from a cypress tree cut down in 594. The generally accepted view has it that the tower was built in around 711, and the large gap in dates arouses curiosity.
» On Aug 17, the Education Board of Kashihara City, Nara Prefecture, announced that two large stone hollows had been excavated at the Ueyama Burial Mound. Circumstances suggest that the mound was the joint grave for Empress Suiko (554-628) and her son Prince Takeda (c.570-c.590).
» According to the May 8 morning edition of Nihon Keizai Shimbun, Mt Sanjô-ga-Take (1,719 m) of the Ômine Mountains in Nara Prefecture, a sacred place of the mountain religion "Shugendô", is dogged by the opinion split on the subject of allowing women on the mountain or not. Local temples agreed to lifting the ban on women as early as 3 years ago, but the organization of faith followers is staunchly opposed to it. Currently, only 3 mountains nationwide still impose a ban on women throughout the year.
» I would like to add a couple of suggestions for things to do in Himeji. First, just to the west of the castle (left as you walk towards it from the station) is a small hill; it's called otokoyama though the only sign saying this is on the back side, and nobody seems to know the name anyway. However, it's fairly easy to find; there's only one large hill just to the west of the castle. The attraction is the view from the top. There's a gazillion steps (the local schools' sport teams often run up them for exercise), a small, unremarkable temple, but many of the pictures of Himeji castle are taken from this hill. See link for more (the directions would be the same for the Himeji Literary Art Museum).
» The Hiroshima Museum of Art ranks among the best museum collections of Western art in Japan.
» Guest House Kikugawa Still v good. The Japanese style rooms are best - more spacious room and bathroom. Dinner at ¥5000, including oyster nabe and fried local fish, is highly recommended. Iwaso Ryokan (tel 0829-442233) Oldest and most traditionally atmospheric ryokan on the island. Has individual villas in the maple-leaf gorge and views of the tori from its more modern building. Rates from ¥21,000 p/p. Watanabe In addition to a recommended restaurant, they also have good looking rooms from ¥8000 p/p room only to ¥12,500-14,000 for room incl 2 meals. All rooms have attached bath, some with wooden bathtubs.
» Matsue is a good base for trips up and down the San-in coast and is on a reasonably fast train connection to Okayama, the most direct hop to the Shinkansen. Horai-so (tel 0852-21 4337) Near the castle, this ryokan might be run-down and in need of a good spring clean but otherwise it's a gorgeous building with many lovely, classical touches and, at ¥5000 p/p a night room only, a total bargain. The rooms look out on a traditional garden and the family that run the place are friendly - they are used to foreigners but it will help if you speak Japanese. The Universal Pass to the castle, buke-yashiki and Lafcadio Hearn museum is now ¥980 The Horikawa pleasure boat around the moat runs all year. In winter the boats have a canopy (they probably do in the summer too) and kotatsu to keep you warm. The Adachi Museum of Art no longer offers discount ticket to foreigners. Now everyone is hit for ¥2200. At Shinji-ko, Yakumo Honjin (tel 0852-66 0136) is a historic ryokan a short walk from the lake (not best viewed here because of busy highway). The ryokan, dating from mid 18th century, is listed as an important cultural asset and while it may not be the most comfy place (it was chilly and there are no rooms with en-suite baths), it is crammed with priceless antiques and surrounded by well-tended gardens. The entrance hall with its soaring beamed ceiling is also v impressive. They serve a wild duck nabe for dinner, served edo-style directly on the tatami, the meat cooked like sukiyaki in giant abalone shells on mini-charcoal braziers.[Simon Richmond; Jan 2005] » Il Palazzo Hotel (¥18,900 per double room) Iconic building designed by Aldo Rossi. Being 16 years old now, the interior fixtures and fittings are beginning to show their age in some rooms. The staff were ultra helpful and friendly. One for design wonks really.
» Kyushu National Museum: ugly blue wave building behind Ume-no-Hana restaurant will open on 17 Oct 2005.
» Sakamotoya Ryokan (tel 818-8211). Top notch ryokan (¥25,000 incl taxes for B&B per room) with a good ambiance and large rooms. Some en suite; smaller rooms share a communal bath. Breakfast is taken in a separate dining room. Convenient to the station and the shopping arcades around Dejima. They sell omiyage packages of their version of kakuni, the stewed pork which is an integral part of Shipoku cuisine. Kagetsu: There's no bento lunch on a Sunday but the cheapest course (just under ¥9000) was worth every yen for the delicious food and the opportunity to explore the marvelous old building and it's lovely garden afterwards. Shipoku cuisine: unlike kaiseki, where each dish is individually plated, Shipoku involves the Chinese concept of eating from a shared plates - the waitresses will dish up the individual portions from the larger dish laid on the table. Megane-bashi: the city is in the process of burying the riverside road in a tunnel and making the riversides more pedestrian friendly - it's a bit of a mess at present but should be good when finished. This is actually the most interesting part of town to poke aimlessly around what with the old stone bridges and a good selection of antique and boutique-type shops on the side streets. Some of the more upmarket hotels/restaurants (eg. Sakamotoya Ryokan and Kagetsu) charge an extra service tax (probably a town tax) of 20%.
» On May 14, the Education Board of Yaku Town, Kagoshima Prefecture, announced that relics of 350-400 pit dwellings from the period 3,500-3,200 years before the present had been found in the Yokomine Ruins on Yaku Island. This is the largest number of dwellings from the Jômon period found in western Japan.
» In April 2002 we booked a package including flights, hire car and hotel with vouchers for breakfast and a few activities at the luxurious Busena Terrace Beach Resort, which was superb. The rooms were gorgeous, the staff very friendly and the resort had everything you could want - we played tennis, swam in the pool (the sea was a little too chilly in late April), walked on the hotel's beach (best beach I've seen in Japan) and drank awamori cocktails in one of the many bars. They served a mean afternoon tea, too. We found a really good, really tasty little Okinawa-soba place in Motobu called Kishimoto Shokudo (5 Toguchi) famous for serving soki (spare ribs) soba. It's open from 11.30 am to 5 pm (closed on Wednesdays) and only has the one dish on the menu: Okinawa soba, which has thicker, paler noodles than the soba on Honshu, and soft, thick spare rib chunks of pork in the soup. You can have a large bowl or a small bowl, and that's your lot! I'd definitely agree with you about the Nakijin-jo ruins - it was a lovely gentle walk around the site, and the views were splendid. On our last morning we drove south to the excellent Okinawa Prefecture Peace Memorial Museum. I was very moved by the witness accounts of the battles and by the monuments commemorating the soldiers and civilians who died, including just under 100 British.
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