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Hanoi top 10

• Old Quarter
  I love wandering the intoxicating tangle of streets that makes up Hanoi's commercial heart. Many are still dedicated to one particular craft; my favourites are the jaunty prayer banners of Hang Quat, Lan On's piles of fragrant medicines and Hang Ma, full of tinsel, votive objects and all manner of paper products.
  
  
• Hoan Kiem Lake
  The Lake of the Restored Sword takes on different personalities at different times of day. I like it best at daybreak, when tai chi experts limber up in the half-light, or at dusk when old men come to play chess and couples seek privacy in the shadows.
  
  
• French Quarter
  South of Hoan Kiem, the French Quarter is full of stately colonial buildings on tree-lined avenues. Its centre-piece is the beautifully restored Opera House. Nearby, you'll find the elegant Metropole Hotel and Governor of Tonkin's Residence.
  
  
• Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum
  I must admit to a rather macabre fascination when I first paid my respects to Uncle Ho. Once inside, however, it was a surprisingly moving experience. Though a trifle waxy, he really does look as though he's sleeping, a thin, pale figure in the otherwise darkened room.
  
  
• Temple of Literature
  The green lawns and gnarled trees of this Confucian temple are a pleasant respite from the noise, dust and confusion of Hanoi.
  
  
• Army Museum
  The best of Hanoi's museums, mainly for its coverage of the war against the French, culminating in the battle of Dien Bien Phu. The forecourt is littered with captured weapons and the twisted wreckage of American bombers.
  
  
• Water puppets
  Though the traditional water puppet shows are certainly touristy, I still find them huge fun. Performances consist of charming vignettes of rural life, such as ploughing, rice planting, children playing in the paddy or herding ducks.
  
  
• Phu Hay To
  For some reason few tourists visit this temple on the shores of West Lake. It's in a lovely setting among banyan trees on the tip of the Ho Tay peninsula and there are some decent restaurants nearby.
  
  
• Ly Quoc Su Pagoda
  This little pagoda just north of the cathedral is another good place to get away from the crowds. It also has an unusual array of statues and there's a great food stall just outside the entrance serving banh gio (fried patties of vermicelli, pork and mushrooms eaten with a sweet sauce).
  
  
• Museum of Ethnology
  Though only a small part of the collection is on display, it's still worth trekking out to this new museum, especially if you're heading up into the northern mountains. The museum shop also stocks a good range of ethnic crafts.